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Helpful Information

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1.   Tips to Control Male Spraying

2.  Polygenes

3.  DNA Testing

4.  Colors & Patterns

As breeders, we would all love to know, too, if anyone can TRAIN a breeding/whole male to NOT spray!  The below story is taken from another breeder, who over the years has learned some tips & tricks to deter the boys from essentially destroying your cattery, home, furniture, and making life miserable. 

Quoted from Natalia, of Vegas Brits Cattery

"In our house over all the years that I am breeding I figured few
things how I can control it. One simple thing we all (humans) have to
admit - cats train us. It doesn't really work over our way, sigh... We
have to ajust to that alien life form we let into the house!

So, there are few things we may arrange around the house to convince
a male that he doesn't HAVE TO spray. Spraying is a natural behavior
that sends a message to other males that the boss lives here and he
is the owner of the territory. Attracting a female is a secondary
meaning. So the screaming female doesn't always trigger the spraying
of a male, to my observation. But a hint of smell of another male
does! So, do not set the red flags for your boy, you will be
scrubbing the walls, you know it!"

1. Things that greatly help to convince the male that there is no
   competition around AND there is no need to spray:
    Have ONE whole boy in the house (if they are others, they have to
   be neutered).
2. Separate the breeding male from the majority of other cats and give him a
   separate room to live in so that he knows all corners of that room as
   the back of his paw, and had already marked them. No need to mark
   again!
3. Make him comfortable in his quarters as much as possible so he
   knows it's only HIS territory and no one is coming to claim it...
4.  Do not leave him alone in the quarters. My stud always has a
   company - it can be a pregnant female with him in his room, a female
   that I plan to breed, or kittens that grow up in daddy's room. My boy
   loves company, loves to be around kittens. Male kittens do not count
   till they are at least 5-6 months old and start to smell like
   males/competitors. To keep things in order they have to leave the
   house before that maturity thing happens and threatens the boss's
   territory. Or they have to be fixed.
5. Breed him! This way he knows sooner or later a girl will come in
   and he will have his party.
   

Polygenes: How Breeders (Unknowingly) Use Them

article courtesy of Fitz Usmany/pictures courtesy Kiibuyat cattery

First, to all people who are no Sphynx breeders, the working of polygenes is applicable to every trait breeders are trying to improve. So, simply replace Sphynx by your own breed and hairlessness by the trait you're after and it also counts for you. Polygenes is what I - as Sphynx breeder - would call the secondary (genetic) conditions. "Secondary" because we are breeders with a breed specific gene - caused by a mutation.

The primary (genetic) conditions are the breed typical genes: in Sphynx this is the hr-gene, in Cornish Rex this is the r-gene, in Devon Rex this is the re-gene, in Siamese this is the cs-gene, in Burmese this is the cb-gene, in Persians and all semi long hair breeds this is the long hair gene. Some varieties of breeds might have several breed specific genes, like the Himalayan (the long hair gene and the siamese gene)


A pedigreed cat is a cat of which its (poly)genetic structure complies to a certain breed standard. Nothing more nothing less, although some want to believe that a pedigree containing purely the cats of that breed is holy making. That's why I have to smile at people who belief that an F6 is better and more pure than an F2. I have seen F6's which looked lesser "pedigreed" than certain F2's; the latter couldn't be shown in certain associations since "rules forbid" :) Polygenes are what make the difference between the "pet quality" and the "top show quality"

"POLYGENES: genes that have little to no noticeable effect by themselves but in groups are able to produce noticeable results. "
So polygenes are a bunch of genes who operate next to the breed specific genes. We know that they are there, but we don't know where they are located on which chromosome, with how many they are supporting a certain trait; if
they're dominant, recessive or incomplete dominant. And we'll probably never know.
To give you an illustration, I will give you some examples, using the breeding of Sphynx to illustrate things. The nakedness of the Sphynx is caused by the known recessive gene for hairlessness of a North American mutation, once occured in +/- 1963/1966 indicated with the code "hr" .
Normal hair has code "Hr" ->
a Sphynx is therefor [hrhr] –
a normal coated Sphynx hybrid is [Hrhr]

In this example I shall assume that the hair genes are supported by 4 pairs of polygenes (could be 3pairs, could be 100pairs!); I shall assume that they are incomplete dominant. I will give 'downy' the mark "+" and I will give "balder" the mark "-" consequently: the more "-" in the polygenetic structure, the balder the Sphynx will be.

So lets take a pet Sphynx with an inferior polygenetic structure which is completely and totally covered in down. This Sphynx will have the genetic code: [hrhr ++ ++ ++ ++]
We breed this Sphyx to a top quality Sphynx with a superior polygenetic structure, which is slicky bald and stays bald the whole year, no matter how cold it gets.
This Sphynx will have the genetic code: [hrhr -- -- -- --]
This couple of Sphynx will get a litter of Sphynx kittens which will all have the genetic code: [hrhr +- +- +- +-]
These Sphynx will have a mediocre polygenetic structure for hairlessness and therefore their hairlessness will be acceptable for showing, but their hairlessness will fluctuate under influence of the third coditions (hormonal influences due to weather; open/fixed state; male/female; sickness etc etc)

(Pictured Above: F2 coated kitten; 12 weeks old)

Most of the breeders on this list will have started with such kind of Sphynx.

(( The tertiary conditions which influence the level of hairlessness are the hormonal levels within the Sphynx.
Cats with inferior or mediocre polygenetic structure for hairlessness will undergo changes in their hairlessness whenever their hormonal level changes; Sphynx with a superior polygenetic structure will always be naked, the whole year through. ))

Well, if you breed two "mediocre" Sphynx to each other
[hrhr +- +- +- +-] X [hrhr +- +- +- +-]
you will get a diversity of qualities:
Some will be balder than their parentage:

(Pictured Above: Two hairless F2 kittens; littermates to the coated kitten)

[hrhr +- +- +- --] a Sphynx some down and a fluffy lion tail, or
[hrhr -- +- +- --] a Sphynx with a lion tail, or
[hrhr -- +- -- --] a Sphynx with little hair on the nose bridge,
or when the breeder is lucky
[hrhr -- -- -- --] a sticky sticky bald one.
Others will be more downy or hairy than their parentage:
[hrhr -- ++ ++ --] a Sphynx with long hairy ears, or
[hrhr ++ +- +- --] a Sphynx with hairy feet and bushy tail, or
[hrhr -- +- ++ +-] a Sphynx with a hairy mask, or
ohmygawd [hrhr ++ ++ ++ ++] completely downy

(Pictured Above: F2 female, coated with curly devon-like hair; littermate to kittens above)

If you understand the working of polygenes you understand why two downy Sphynx parents can "suddenly" produce a completely naked litter; or why two top quality Sphynx, can produce a complete downy litter. Or why in a litter the quality can vary between a totally downy one, to a top quality a life long bald Sphynx. Or why two parents will produce two consequetive litters of shockingly different qualities  "This is a gorgeous litter, the best I ever had! I am going to repeat this breeding". Next litter ....... "ohmygawd!! this cant be true, they are all fuzzy!"

Polygenes is what breeders use to develop their breeds: selective breeding. Sphynx breeders will always continue with the "better" kittens and hopefully place the worst quality as neutered pets (and don't sell these to other breeders as top quality.

If a breeder has a decent breeding program you will see a certain progress in its line over the year.
S/He will start with [hrhr +- +- +- +-] quality
S/He will continue with a kitten with [hrhr -- -- +- +-] quality and the next year
S/He will continue with a kitten with [hrhr -- -- -- +-] quality
Till finally most of his/her kittens will be of [hrhr -- -- -- --] quality.

Every breeder will aime for uniformity in his/her litters. Uniformity in type and - for Sphynx breeders - in nakedness.
So in the beginning the litters will vary between
[hrhr ++ ++ ++ ++] to
[hrhr +- +- +- +-] and later on
[hrhr +- +- +- +-] to
[hrhr -- -- -- --] till finally all kittens are always
[hrhr -- -- -- --].

If you look to pictures of the ancient Persians, their faces were not extreme as nowadays and their coats not as silky and long as the ones of today. If you look to photo's of the applehead Siamese, their heads were not as long as they are today. Breeders of those breeds always picked the kittens with their desired (poly)genetic structure till a point that their cats breed true.

Look at pictures of the first Sphynx; they weren't that bald.
Over time we developed our breed and "improved the level of hairlessness".

DNA Parentage, Coat Color Determination & PKD Testing

There are now tests available for our feline friends to determine correct coat color, a DNA test determining correct lineage/parents of a cat, and if needed, PKD testing.  You can find all the necessary information & forms for each test at the UC Davis link provided below:

http://www.vgl.ucdavis.edu/service/cat/index.html

There are also helpful descriptions on how to obtain the DNA samples by cheek buccal swabbing. 

The Sphynx is accepted in all colors & patterns.  The descriptions & pictures below are here as a guide to show what each color & pattern LOOKS like.   Eye coloring ranges from green, sea-green, gold, copper, blue, aqua, and even odd-eyed.  None of the eye colors are rare, despite the belief of many.

Photos updated:  February 7, 2007

WHITE: white to pink. Nose leather and paw pads: pink.

White; Courtesy of Anudedude Cattery

BLACK: black. One level tone from nose to tip of tail. Nose leather: black. Paw pads: black or brown.

Black; Picture courtesy of Abeitagatos Cattery

BLUE: blue. One level tone from nose to tip of tail. Nose leather and paw pads: blue.

 Blue; Courtesy of Abeitagatos cattery

RED: deep, rich, clear, brilliant red, without markings. Lips and chin the same color as the skin. Nose leather and paw pads: brick red.

CREAM: one level shade of buff cream, without markings. Nose leather and paw pads: pink.

CHOCOLATE: rich chestnut brown, even throughout. Nose leather: brown. Paw pads: brown or cinnamon.

LAVENDER/LILAC: frosty-grey with a pinkish tone, even throughout. Nose leather and paw pads: lavender-pink.

Lavender/Lilac; Photo courtesy of Abeitagatos Cattery

CINNAMON: cinnamon, even throughout. Nose leather and paw pads: cinnamon.

FAWN/NATURAL: pale, pinkish fawn, even throughout. Nose leather and paw pads: pale fawn.

CLASSIC TABBY PATTERN: markings clearly defined on legs and tail. Pattern tends to fade on hairless body. Legs evenly barred with bracelets coming up to meet the body markings. Tail evenly ringed. Several unbroken necklaces on neck and upper chest, the more the better. Markings seen on the skin. Frown lines on head form an intricate letter "M" Unbroken line runs back from outer corner of eye. Swirls on cheeks. Vertical lines over back of head extend to shoulder markings which are in the shape of a butterfly with both upper and lower wings distinctly outlined and marked with dots inside outline. Back markings consist of a vertical line down the spine from butterfly to tail with a vertical stripe paralleling it on each side, the three stripes well separated by stripes of the ground color. Large solid blotch on each side to be encircled by one or more unbroken rings. Side markings should be the same on both sides. Double vertical rows of buttons on chest and stomach.

 Seal Mink Classic Tabby & White (Right); courtesy of Ankhamun cattery

MACKEREL TABBY PATTERN: markings clearly defined on legs and tail. Pattern tends to fade on hairless body. Legs evenly barred with narrow bracelets coming up to meet the body markings. Tail barred. Necklaces on neck and chest distinct, like so many chains. Head barred with an "M" on the forehead. Unbroken lines running back from the eyes. Lines running down the head to meet the shoulders. Spine lines run together to form a narrow saddle. Narrow pencillings run around body.

 Red Mackeral Tabby; courtesy of Wizardgate cattery

SPOTTED TABBY PATTERN: markings on the body to be spotted. The spots can be round, oblong, or rosette-shaped. Any of these are of equal merit but the spots, however shaped or placed, shall be distinct. Spots should not run together in a broken Mackerel pattern. A dorsal stripe runs the length of the body to the tip of the tail. The stripe is ideally composed of spots. The markings on the face and forehead shall be typically tabby markings. Underside of the body to have "vest buttons." Legs and tail are barred. Markings clearly defined on legs and tail. Pattern tends to fade on hairless body.

PATCHED TABBY PATTERN/TORBIE: a patched tabby (torbie) is an established silver, brown, blue, red, cream, etc. tabby with patches of red, cream, lavender, fawn, etc. clearly defined on both the body and extremities; a blaze on the face is desirable.

 Blue Mackeral Torbie & White; courtesy of Wizardgate cattery

SILVER TABBY: skin ground color, including lips and chin, pale clear silver. Markings dense black. Nose leather: brick red. Paw pads: black.

BROWN/BLACK TABBY: skin ground color brilliant coppery brown. Markings dense black. Lips and chin the same shade as the rings around the eyes. Back of leg black from paw to heel. Nose leather: brick red. Paw pads: black or brown.

 Black Mackeral Tabby & White; courtesy of Friday cattery

BLUE TABBY: skin ground color, including lips and chin, pale bluish ivory. Markings a very deep blue affording a good contrast with skin ground color. Nose leather: old rose. Paw pads: rose.

RED TABBY: skin ground color red. Markings deep, rich red. Lips and chin red. Nose leather and paw pads: brick red.

 Red & White Tabby; Courtesy of Shammicats cattery

CREAM TABBY: skin ground color, including lips and chin, very pale cream. Markings buff or cream sufficiently darker than the ground color to afford good contrast but remaining within the dilute color range. Nose leather and paw pads: pink.

CHOCOLATE (Chestnut) TABBY: skin ground color is warm fawn, markings are rich chestnut brown. Nose leather: chestnut, or pink rimmed with chestnut. Paw pads: cinnamon.

CHOCOLATE-SILVER TABBY: skin ground color, including lips and chin, is silver. Markings rich chestnut. Nose leather: chestnut or pink rimmed with chestnut. Paw pads: cinnamon.

CINNAMON TABBY: skin ground color, including lips and chin, a pale, warm honey, markings a dense cinnamon, affording a good contrast with skin ground color. Nose leather: cinnamon or coral rimmed with cinnamon. Paw pads: cinnamon.

CINNAMON-SILVER TABBY: skin ground color, including lips and chin, a pale glistening silver. Markings dense cinnamon. Nose leather: cinnamon. Paw pads: coral.

LAVENDER/LILAC TABBY: skin ground color is pale lavender. Markings are a rich lavender, affording a good contrast with skin ground color. Nose leather: lavender, or pink rimmed with lavender. Paw pads: lavender-pink.

LAVENDER/LILAC-SILVER TABBY: skin ground color, including lips and chin, a cold clear silver. Markings lavender. Nose leather: lavender or pink rimmed with lavender. Paw pads: lavender-pink.

FAWN/NATURAL TABBY: skin ground color, including lips and chin, pale ivory, markings dense fawn, affording good contrast with skin ground color. Nose leather and paw pads: pale fawn.

TORTOISESHELL: black mottled or patched with red and/or cream. Blaze on face desirable.

 Tortie; Courtesy of Abeitagatos cattery

BLUE-CREAM: blue mottled or patched with cream. Blaze on face desirable.

Blue Cream; courtesy of Kiibuyat cattery

CHOCOLATE (Chestnut) TORTOISESHELL: rich chestnut brown mottled or patched with red and/or cream. Blaze on face desirable.

CINNAMON TORTOISESHELL: cinnamon mottled or patched with red and/or cream. Blaze on face desirable.

LAVENDER/LILAC-CREAM: lavender/lilac mottled or patched with cream. Blaze on face desirable.

FAWN/NATURAL-CREAM: fawn/natural mottled or patched with cream. Blaze on face desirable.

CALICO/TORTIE & WHITE: white with unbrindled patches of black and red. White predominant on underparts.

 Tortie & White; courtesy of Friday cattery

VAN CALICO/TORTIE: white with unbrindled patches of black and red confined to the extremities; head, tail, legs. One or two small patches of color on body allowable.

DILUTE CALICO: white with unbrindled patches of blue and cream. White predominant on underparts.

DILUTE VAN CALICO: white with unbrindled patches of blue and cream confined to the extremities; head, tail, legs. One or two small patches of color on body allowable.

 Blue Tortie & White Van; Courtesy of Shammicats cattery

BI-COLOR: solid color and white, tabby and white, tortoiseshell and white, pointed and white, any color and white, etc.

 Black & White; courtesy of Wizardgate cattery

 Cream & White; courtesy of Shammicats cattery

 Red & White; courtesy of Shammicats cattery

VAN BI-COLOR: solid color and white, tabby and white, tortoiseshell and white, etc., with color confined to the extremities; head, tail, and legs. One or two small patches on body allowable.

 Van Kitten; courtesy of Friday cattery

 Red & White Van; Courtesy of Abeitagatos cattery

POINTED PATTERN: point restricted colors show little or no color contrast between body and points in the mature Sphynx. Although born very light in color, the pointed Sphynx will darken and appear solid in color as an adult. Eye color: vivid blue. Nose leather and paw pads: appropriate to coat color. The pointed pattern may be combined with ANY other pattern (except mink) and ANY colors, e.g. lilac-silver lynx point and seal-tortie point with white (shown in the Bi-Color Class).

Seal Point; Photo courtesy of Abeitagatos Cattery

 Blue Point & White; courtesy of Shammicats cattery

 Seal Tortie Point; courtesy of Shammicats cattery

MINK PATTERN: point restricted colors show little or no color differentiation between body and points in the mature Sphynx. Although born very light in color, the mink Sphynx will darken and appear solid in color as an adult. Eye color: aqua. Nose leather and paw pads: appropriate to coat color. The mink pattern may be combined with ANY other pattern (except pointed) and ANY colors, e.g. natural mink, blue mink, champagne mink, platinum mink, natural tabby mink, blue-cream, tortie mink and white (shown in Bi-Color Class).

 Red Mink; courtesy of Wizardgate cattery

 Seal Mink; courtesy of Wizardgate cattery

 Cream Mink & White; courtesy of Friday cattery

 Chocolate Mink; courtesy of Friday cattery

 Tortie Mink & White; courtesy of Friday cattery

 Seal Mink Tortie; courtesy of Shammicats cattery

SEPIA PATTERN:

 Seal Sepia & White; courtesy of Wizardgate cattery

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